Great Smoky Mountains National Park: Backcountry

After two days of driving, the first major adventure of our trip was two nights in the backcountry at Great Smoky Mountains National Park! We decided on a loop trip (technically a lollipop with a short stick) that was recommended on Backpacker.com, as well as in our "Best Hikes" series trail guide.

Here is the overview of our backcountry route:
Start from Newfound Gap
First night at Peck's Corner Shelter (about 10.6 mi)
Second night at Kephart Shelter (about 11 mi)
End back at Newfound Gap (about 5.5 mi)
Total = About 27 miles

We arrived at Great Smoky Mountains on Tuesday, May 13 and stayed the night at Elkmont campground. This way we could swing by the ranger's station at Sugarlands the next morning before heading out for the backcountry. We got our first taste of the Smokies right away, when it started raining as we tried to start a fire for dinner. We ended up eating dinner here, with the help of our stove:

It rains a lot in the Smokies, that's for sure, but it was over within an hour and we went on the Elkmont Nature Trail that evening to stretch our car-cramped legs. Many of the short nature trails were very nice, with self-guided brochures to tell about the area.

On Wednesday, we put on our packs and started heading north from Newfound Gap on the Appalacian Trail. In typical Great Smokies fashion, we started our trip in dense fog.

The trail was very rocky at the start, with a good number of day hikers up until Chalie's Bunion, which is just over 4 miles along the trail. Chalies Bunion is a highly recommended hike, whether a day hike or part of a backcountry trip. These were the most amazing views we had the whole trip! Pictures never do it justice, but here is the view from Charlie's Bunion:

One thing unique about the backcountry at Great Smoky Mountains is the fact that many sites have shelters. We weren't sure what to expect, but after discussing with the backcountry ranger at Sugarlands, we didn't even bring a tent! We brought a rain fly in case of emergency, but decided it was a lot of weight to bring "just in case." The shelters are like a giant bunk bed, with two platforms stacked on top of one another. Each platform is supposed to hold 5-6 people, but in reality could probably hold 8-10 if needed. The shelters also have a table and benches, and hooks for your backpacks! The cable system for hanging bear bags is nearby (you didn't even need a rope at these sites), and some shelters also have a fireplace and/or an outdoor fire pit. Peck's Corner had a Privy nearby, but Kephart's did not.

Our first night, at Peck's corner, we met 3 thru-hikers on the Appalachian Trail - Sunshine, Pockets, and Dragon (thru-hikers give each other nicknames). It was so much fun to hear their stories, learn from one another, and imagine what it would be like to spend months on the trail. Everyone please send them good thoughts as they continue on their journey through the summer and into fall! They said they would send an email when they completed their hike, and I truly hope they do!

After a rainy night (we would have been very wet in a tent!), day two was a wet one. Some of our trails had literally turned into flowing streams (top right of photos below). The elevation change on this day was huge, heading down, up, and back down again. I learned an important lesson: eat a snack before you are hungry! It takes a lot of energy to hike 3+ miles straight up! A must-have list for backcountry in the Smokies:

• Raincover for your pack
• Waterproof boots (or ones that will dry somewhat quickly)
• Quick-dry everything - When you only have 2 shirts, it's nice to know the other will be dry the next day
• Layers - We started each morning very cool, but quickly warmed up as we got moving. The sun was constantly in and out of the clouds, and the weather changed often. (It actually sleeted on our way back to the pass on day 3!)
• Ladies, if your hair is anything like mine -  A bandana to tame your hair in the humidity! :-)

Day 3 was a short but steep hike all the way back up to the pass. Overall, this trip is not for the beginner hiker (and probably shouldn't have been for me with my knees), but it was a great loop and comes highly recommended by us! We saw such a variety - it was a great way to get a good feel for what the Great Smoky Mountains have to offer. This is just a snippet of the awesomeness we saw these 3 days!

As always, if you want to see more pictures (or just bigger pictures) you can check out my Flickr!

Planning Our National Parks Trip

When we have time for a vacation, our first thought is always "What parks can we go to?" This May, after Brian graduated, we had 2 weeks to spend on vacation. So how did we decide where to go?

1) Amount of Time - What can we see in 2 weeks? You could spend the whole 2 weeks at some parks and still wish you had more time. Other parks you only need a couple days. Two weeks seems like a lot, but you have to figure travel time, too! How much time are you willing to spend in the car?

2) Amount to Spend - Sure, 2 weeks is probably enough time to go to Alaska and see a park or 2, but that requires an expensive plane ticket. At this point, we were looking for an affordable trip.

3) Location of the Parks - First, what parks are near each other? I grouped parks together and looked at what the routes would look like if we visited that group. How much time would we spend driving? Does the route make sense? Is there anything else we might want to see along the way? This breakdown gave us 3 options: Yellowstone area parks, SW parks (Big Bend, Saguaro, etc), or SE parks.

4) Time of Year - This is probably the most important deciding factor on all of our trips. Where can you go this time of year? When you're going to be outside literally ALL of the time, you need to know what the weather is going to be like. Half of Yellowstone wouldn't even be open in mid May, so we decided to go farther south. It turns out that May is the off-season for the SW parks because it is SO hot and dry! So that brought us to the SE.

Based on all of these factors, we decided on a trip to Mammoth Cave, Great Smokey Mountains, and Congaree National Parks. This gave us about a week at the Smokies, a day and a half at Congaree, and one full day at Mammoth Cave. We were originally going to try and squeeze in a trip to the ocean, but decided against it. This trip was affordable, and the weather was great! And while I'm sure we could have spent more time at the Smokies, the timing was about right overall.

So, are you ready to plan your next trip to some National Parks?

**Update: Here are links to each section of our trip
Great Smoky Mountains - Backcountry
Great Smoky Mountains - Cosby/Big Creek
Congaree National Park
Mammoth Cave National Park

The Quick Update

Hello everyone!

I have been silent on my blog for quite some time, but this is not for lack of things to write about! The long updates are coming soon, but here is a quick update of what is happening in my life!

 - Brian graduated from Vet School at the beginning of May. Around this same time, I finished by job, said goodbye to many dear friends, and bridged my Girl Scout troop to a new level and new leader!
 - Brian and I went on a 2 week vacation, hitting up 3 national parks! Many posts to come with details on each!
 - We are officially moved into our new house and have started new jobs! I am working part time at the YMCA, helping with their summer day camp.
 - The house is starting to come together, but there is a lot more to do!

I'm off to do some furniture shopping now, but will hopefully have some more detailed updates and vacation pictures to share tonight!